針織服裝大都是以棉和(he)(he)化纖棉紗為(wei)原料，其(qi)特點是柔(rou)軟(ruan)、有(you)彈性、透氣(qi)、吸汗、穿(chuan)著舒適(shi)，如(ru)運動服和(he)(he)內衣等。針織服裝作為(wei)服裝除了(le)有(you)和(he)(he)梭織服裝的共性方(fang)面外，還具(ju)有(you)其(qi)特性。
工藝流程：
紡紗→編織→驗(yan)布→裁剪→縫制→整燙(tang)→檢(jian)驗(yan)
(一)紡紗
紡紗的(de)目的(de)是(shi)使(shi)進廠的(de)棉紗卷(juan)繞成一(yi)定結(jie)構與規格的(de)卷(juan)裝(zhuang)筒子，以適合針織生產之用。在紡紗過程中(zhong)要(yao)消除紗線上(shang)(shang)存在的(de)一(yi)些疵(ci)點，同時使(shi)紗線具有一(yi)定的(de)均勻(yun)的(de)張力(li)，對紗線進行(xing)必要(yao)的(de)輔助處理，如上(shang)(shang)蠟、上(shang)(shang)油等，以改善紗線的(de)編織性(xing)能，提高生產效率和改善產品質量。
(二(er))編織
編織(zhi)是通過(guo)織(zhi)機使紗(sha)線(xian)組織(zhi)成線(xian)卷互相串套而(er)成為織(zhi)物的過(guo)程。這也是針織(zhi)服裝(zhuang)和梭織(zhi)服裝(zhuang)的根本區別(bie)。
編(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)方法可(ke)(ke)分(fen)為緯(wei)(wei)編(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)和經(jing)(jing)編(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)兩(liang)大類，作為針(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)用(yong)(yong)(yong)衣的(de)面(mian)料大都(dou)是緯(wei)(wei)編(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)。緯(wei)(wei)編(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)是將一根(gen)或(huo)數根(gen)紗線(xian)由(you)緯(wei)(wei)向(xiang)喂(wei)入針(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)機(ji)(ji)(ji)的(de)工(gong)(gong)作針(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)上，使紗線(xian)順序地彎曲成(cheng)圈，且加以(yi)(yi)串套而(er)形(xing)(xing)成(cheng)緯(wei)(wei)編(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)針(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)。用(yong)(yong)(yong)來編(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)這種(zhong)(zhong)針(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)的(de)機(ji)(ji)(ji)器稱為緯(wei)(wei)編(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)針(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)機(ji)(ji)(ji)。緯(wei)(wei)編(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)對加工(gong)(gong)紗線(xian)的(de)種(zhong)(zhong)類和線(xian)密度有(you)較(jiao)(jiao)大的(de)適應(ying)性(xing)，所生(sheng)產(chan)(chan)的(de)針(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)的(de)品(pin)種(zhong)(zhong)也(ye)甚為廣泛。緯(wei)(wei)編(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)針(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)的(de)品(pin)種(zhong)(zhong)繁(fan)多(duo)，既(ji)能(neng)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)成(cheng)各(ge)種(zhong)(zhong)組織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)的(de)內外(wai)衣用(yong)(yong)(yong)坯(pi)布(bu)，又可(ke)(ke)編(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)成(cheng)單件的(de)成(cheng)形(xing)(xing)和部分(fen)成(cheng)形(xing)(xing)產(chan)(chan)品(pin)，同時緯(wei)(wei)編(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)的(de)工(gong)(gong)藝過程和機(ji)(ji)(ji)器結構(gou)比(bi)較(jiao)(jiao)簡單，易于操作，機(ji)(ji)(ji)器的(de)生(sheng)產(chan)(chan)效率(lv)比(bi)較(jiao)(jiao)高(gao)，因此，緯(wei)(wei)編(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)在針(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)工(gong)(gong)業中比(bi)重(zhong)較(jiao)(jiao)大。緯(wei)(wei)編(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)針(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)機(ji)(ji)(ji)的(de)類型(xing)很多(duo)，一般都(dou)以(yi)(yi)針(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)床數量，針(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)床形(xing)(xing)式和用(yong)(yong)(yong)針(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)類別(bie)等來區分(fen)。經(jing)(jing)編(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)是由(you)一組或(huo)幾組平行排列(lie)的(de)紗線(xian)分(fen)別(bie)排列(lie)在織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)針(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)上，同時沿縱向(xiang)編(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)而(er)成(cheng)。用(yong)(yong)(yong)來編(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)這種(zhong)(zhong)針(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)的(de)機(ji)(ji)(ji)器稱為經(jing)(jing)編(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)針(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)機(ji)(ji)(ji)。一般經(jing)(jing)編(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)的(de)脫散性(xing)和延(yan)伸性(xing)比(bi)緯(wei)(wei)編(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)小，其結構(gou)和外(wai)形(xing)(xing)的(de)穩定性(xing)較(jiao)(jiao)好，它的(de)用(yong)(yong)(yong)途(tu)也(ye)較(jiao)(jiao)廣，除可(ke)(ke)生(sheng)產(chan)(chan)衣用(yong)(yong)(yong)面(mian)料外(wai)，還可(ke)(ke)生(sheng)產(chan)(chan)蚊帳、窗簾、花邊裝(zhuang)飾織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)、醫用(yong)(yong)(yong)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)等等，經(jing)(jing)編(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)機(ji)(ji)(ji)同樣也(ye)可(ke)(ke)以(yi)(yi)以(yi)(yi)針(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)床、織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)針(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)針(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)型(xing)來進行區分(fen)。
(三)驗布
由于坯(pi)布(bu)(bu)的質(zhi)(zhi)量(liang)直接關系(xi)到成品的質(zhi)(zhi)量(liang)和產(chan)量(liang)，因此裁剪前，必須根據裁剪用布(bu)(bu)配料單(dan)，核(he)對匹數、尺寸(cun)、密度、批號、線密度是否符合要求，在(zai)驗布(bu)(bu)時對坯(pi)布(bu)(bu)按(an)標(biao)準(zhun)逐(zhu)一進(jin)行檢(jian)驗，對影(ying)響成品質(zhi)(zhi)量(liang)的各類疵(ci)點，例如色(se)花、漏針、破洞、油污等須做好標(biao)記及質(zhi)(zhi)量(liang)記錄。
(四(si))裁(cai)剪(jian)
針織服裝裁剪的主要工(gong)藝過程：
斷料→借疵→劃樣→裁剪(jian)→捆扎。
借疵是提(ti)高產(chan)品質量(liang)、節省(sheng)用料的重要(yao)一環(huan)，斷料過(guo)程中盡可(ke)能將坯布上的疵點借到裁耗部(bu)位或縫(feng)合處。
針織面(mian)料按經向網目輔料裁剪，裁剪一(yi)般(ban)采用套裁方式(shi)，常用的有平套、互套、鑲套、拼接套、剖(pou)縫(feng)套等。
針織面料在裁剪(jian)中應注(zhu)意以下事項：
(1)不要將有(you)(you)折疊痕跡(ji)處(chu)和有(you)(you)印花的邊緣處(chu)使用(yong)在(zai)服裝(zhuang)的明(ming)顯部位。
(2)剪裁中不要使(shi)用錐(zhui)孔標記(ji)，以免影響成衣(yi)的外觀(guan)。
(五)縫制(zhi)
我國(guo)針織工(gong)業現(xian)有縫(feng)制工(gong)藝及設備是以中(zhong)、高速(su)平(ping)縫(feng)機(ji)(ji)(ji)(俗稱(cheng)“平(ping)車”)、中(zhong)、高速(su)包(bao)縫(feng)機(ji)(ji)(ji)(俗稱(cheng)“拷克車”)、繃(beng)縫(feng)車等縫(feng)紉機(ji)(ji)(ji)機(ji)(ji)(ji)型為主。
由(you)于針(zhen)織織物是(shi)由(you)線圈串套組成，裁剪(jian)后(hou)(hou)的(de)衣片(pian)邊緣容易(yi)發生脫散，故應先將(jiang)衣片(pian)邊緣包(bao)(bao)縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(俗稱“拷邊”)后(hou)(hou)再用平(ping)縫(feng)(feng)(feng)機(ji)(ji)等縫(feng)(feng)(feng)制(zhi)加工。平(ping)縫(feng)(feng)(feng)機(ji)(ji)和包(bao)(bao)縫(feng)(feng)(feng)機(ji)(ji)是(shi)縫(feng)(feng)(feng)制(zhi)針(zhen)織時裝的(de)主要(yao)機(ji)(ji)種。在縫(feng)(feng)(feng)制(zhi)過程中一般(ban)要(yao)注意(yi)掌握以下要(yao)點。
1.縫(feng)跡(ji) 由于(yu)針(zhen)織面(mian)料的(de)(de)織物(wu)具有(you)縱向和橫(heng)向的(de)(de)延伸(shen)性(xing)(即(ji)彈性(xing))的(de)(de)特點(dian)及邊緣線圈易脫散的(de)(de)缺點(dian)，故縫(feng)制針(zhen)織時裝的(de)(de)縫(feng)跡(ji)應滿足：
(1)縫跡應(ying)具有與針織(zhi)織(zhi)物相適應(ying)的拉伸性(xing)和強力。
(2)縫(feng)跡應能防(fang)止織物線(xian)圈的(de)脫散。
(3)適當控(kong)(kong)制縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)跡(ji)(ji)的密(mi)度。如厚型織(zhi)物(wu)的平縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)機(ji)縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)跡(ji)(ji)密(mi)度控(kong)(kong)制在(zai)9～10針(zhen)/2cm，包縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)機(ji)縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)跡(ji)(ji)密(mi)度為6～7針(zhen)/2cm，薄型織(zhi)物(wu)的平縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)機(ji)縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)跡(ji)(ji)密(mi)度控(kong)(kong)制在(zai)10～11針(zhen)/2cm，包縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)機(ji)縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)跡(ji)(ji)密(mi)度為7～8針(zhen)/2cm。
2.縫線 一般純(chun)棉(mian)針(zhen)織面料(liao)采用9.8tex×4或7.4tex×3的(de)純(chun)棉(mian)及滌棉(mian)混紡線，化纖針(zhen)織面料(liao)采用7.8tex×2的(de)彈力錦綸絲和5tex×6的(de)錦綸線。縫線要(yao)達(da)到下列質量(liang)要(yao)求：
(1)縫紉(ren)機用純棉線(縫線)應采用精梳棉線，它具有(you)較高的強度和(he)均勻度。
(2)縫(feng)線應具有一定的彈性，可防止(zhi)在縫(feng)紉過程中不會由(you)于線的曲折或壓擠(ji)發生(sheng)斷線現象。
(3)縫(feng)線必須(xu)具有柔軟性。
(4)縫線(xian)必(bi)須條干(gan)均勻光滑，減少(shao)縫線(xian)在線(xian)槽和(he)針孔中受阻或摩擦，避免造成斷(duan)線(xian)和(he)線(xian)跡張力不勻等(deng)疵點。
3.縫(feng)針(zhen) 縫(feng)紉機針(zhen)又稱縫(feng)針(zhen)、機針(zhen)。為(wei)了(le)達(da)到縫(feng)針(zhen)與(yu)縫(feng)料(liao)、縫(feng)線的(de)理想(xiang)配(pei)合，必須(xu)選擇合適的(de)縫(feng)針(zhen)。
(六(liu))整燙(tang)
針織服裝通過整燙使其外(wai)觀平整、尺寸準(zhun)足。熨(yun)燙時在衣內(nei)套(tao)入襯板使產品(pin)保(bao)持(chi)一(yi)定(ding)的(de)(de)形狀和規格(ge)，襯板的(de)(de)尺寸比成衣所要求的(de)(de)略(lve)大些，以防回(hui)縮后規格(ge)過小。熨(yun)燙的(de)(de)溫(wen)度一(yi)般控制(zhi)在180℃～200℃之(zhi)間較為(wei)安全，不(bu)易燙黃(huang)、焦(jiao)化。
(七(qi))成品檢驗
成品檢(jian)驗是產品出廠(chang)前的一次(ci)綜合性(xing)檢(jian)驗，包括(kuo)外觀質量(liang)(liang)和內(nei)在質量(liang)(liang)兩大項目(mu)(mu)，外觀檢(jian)驗內(nei)容有(you)尺(chi)寸公差、外觀疵(ci)點、縫跡牢(lao)度等(deng)。內(nei)在檢(jian)測項目(mu)(mu)有(you)面料單位面積重量(liang)(liang)、色牢(lao)度、縮水率等(deng)。
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