縫(feng)紉就(jiu)是把衣片縫(feng)合成服裝的(de)工(gong)(gong)藝。可(ke)分為(wei)手縫(feng)工(gong)(gong)藝、機縫(feng)工(gong)(gong)藝、特殊工(gong)(gong)藝等。
手縫工藝
采用(yong)手(shou)(shou)針(zhen)(zhen)進行縫制的(de)工藝(yi)。是中(zhong)國的(de)傳統手(shou)(shou)工技藝(yi)。很多針(zhen)(zhen)法及其(qi)作用(yong)尚不(bu)能用(yong)現代(dai)縫紉機替(ti)代(dai)。具有(you)線跡(ji)精細、平整,針(zhen)(zhen)法豐富等特點,被譽(yu)為高檔工藝(yi)。 手(shou)(shou)縫工藝(yi)的(de)主(zhu)要工具是手(shou)(shou)縫針(zhen)(zhen)和頂針(zhen)(zhen)箍(gu)。絲(si)綢(chou)等纖維較細的(de)織(zhi)物宜用(yong)7~9號針(zhen)(zhen);鎖眼(yan)釘紐宜用(yong)4~5號針(zhen)(zhen),一般(ban)毛料則用(yong)粗細適中(zhong)的(de)6~8號針(zhen)(zhen)。
機縫工藝
采用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)紉機(ji)進行縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)制的(de)(de)工藝。具有針(zhen)跡(ji)(ji)整齊、工效高等(deng)(deng)優點。常用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)的(de)(de)機(ji)縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)工藝有以(yi)下(xia)幾種。①合縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(含兜縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng));將(jiang)(jiang)衣(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)片(pian)(pian)(pian)組合縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)緝(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)。用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)于(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)暗縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)衣(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)片(pian)(pian)(pian)組合或(huo)袋蓋(gai)、衣(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)領、袖頭(tou)等(deng)(deng)三邊(bian)縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)合的(de)(de)翻(fan)轉部(bu)件(jian)(jian)。②包縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng):以(yi)一(yi)(yi)層衣(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)片(pian)(pian)(pian)邊(bian)包住另一(yi)(yi)層衣(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)片(pian)(pian)(pian)邊(bian)縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)緝(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji),再作(zuo)第二(er)或(huo)第三次(ci)縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)緝(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)。有明包,暗包之(zhi)別(bie)。一(yi)(yi)般用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)于(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)布(bu)(bu)服裝不(bu)(bu)鎖邊(bian)的(de)(de)縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)口(kou)(kou)(kou)(kou)。③咬縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng):由上(shang)下(xia)層衣(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)片(pian)(pian)(pian)咬住中(zhong)間一(yi)(yi)層衣(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)片(pian)(pian)(pian),正面(mian)緝(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)明線(xian)。用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)于(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)裝袖頭(tou)、腰頭(tou)等(deng)(deng)。④騎(qi)縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng):兩(liang)(liang)塊(kuai)織物(wu)縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)口(kou)(kou)(kou)(kou)銜接(jie)(jie)(不(bu)(bu)疊起),在(zai)銜接(jie)(jie)處緝(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)W狀(zhuang)線(xian)跡(ji)(ji),使(shi)兩(liang)(liang)塊(kuai)布(bu)(bu)互相牽牢(lao)。一(yi)(yi)般用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)于(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)高檔服裝的(de)(de)襯布(bu)(bu)拼接(jie)(jie)和收顙。⑤平接(jie)(jie)縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng):兩(liang)(liang)塊(kuai)織物(wu)縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)口(kou)(kou)(kou)(kou)拼接(jie)(jie),互為銜接(jie)(jie)補充。用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)于(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)接(jie)(jie)長衣(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)片(pian)(pian)(pian)部(bu)件(jian)(jian)等(deng)(deng)。⑥平疊縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng):兩(liang)(liang)塊(kuai)織物(wu)縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)口(kou)(kou)(kou)(kou)重疊,居中(zhong)縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)緝(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)。用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)于(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)襯布(bu)(bu)拼接(jie)(jie)和收顙等(deng)(deng)。⑦來去(qu)縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng):將(jiang)(jiang)兩(liang)(liang)塊(kuai)衣(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)片(pian)(pian)(pian)疊合,先沿毛口(kou)(kou)(kou)(kou)正面(mian)緝(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)狹縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(3cm)再在(zai)反面(mian)緝(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)闊縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(約7cm)。多(duo)用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)于(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)單(dan)衣(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)合。⑧分緝(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng):兩(liang)(liang)層衣(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)片(pian)(pian)(pian)疊合縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)緝(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji),縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)口(kou)(kou)(kou)(kou)分開,兩(liang)(liang)邊(bian)各緝(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)一(yi)(yi)道明線(xian)。常用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)于(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)不(bu)(bu)易(yi)折轉的(de)(de)衣(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)料(如(ru)皮革(ge))或(huo)線(xian)跡(ji)(ji)裝飾(shi)等(deng)(deng)。⑨坐緝(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng):兩(liang)(liang)塊(kuai)衣(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)片(pian)(pian)(pian)縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)合,縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)口(kou)(kou)(kou)(kou)傾(qing)倒,正面(mian)作(zuo)第二(er)次(ci)縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)緝(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)。常用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)作(zuo)固(gu)定縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)口(kou)(kou)(kou)(kou)或(huo)線(xian)跡(ji)(ji)裝飾(shi)。⑩分坐緝(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng):兩(liang)(liang)塊(kuai)衣(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)片(pian)(pian)(pian)先合緝(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji),將(jiang)(jiang)緝(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)傾(qing)倒縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)口(kou)(kou)(kou)(kou)分開,在(zai)分縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)上(shang)緝(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)一(yi)(yi)道明線(xian)。服裝加工中(zhong)多(duo)用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)于(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)布(bu)(bu)服裝的(de)(de)前袖縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)、褲襠縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)、后縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)等(deng)(deng)。壓緝(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(悶(men)緝(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)):上(shang)層衣(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)片(pian)(pian)(pian)縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)口(kou)(kou)(kou)(kou)折光,覆蓋(gai)下(xia)層衣(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)片(pian)(pian)(pian),一(yi)(yi)次(ci)縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)緝(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)成型。多(duo)用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)于(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)前后過肩或(huo)呈圓(yuan)弧型、尖(jian)角型等(deng)(deng)部(bu)件(jian)(jian)的(de)(de)裝接(jie)(jie)。漏(lou)落(luo)縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng):明緝(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)線(xian)漏(lou)落(luo)于(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)分縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)槽內或(huo)緊挨(ai)坐縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)邊(bian)沿,既能使(shi)線(xian)跡(ji)(ji)暗藏,又能固(gu)定下(xia)層衣(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)片(pian)(pian)(pian)。常用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)于(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)裝腰頭(tou)、里(li)襟等(deng)(deng)。卷(juan)(juan)邊(bian):用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)卷(juan)(juan)邊(bian)壓腳或(huo)用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)手指將(jiang)(jiang)衣(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)片(pian)(pian)(pian)毛口(kou)(kou)(kou)(kou)卷(juan)(juan)光。常用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)于(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)單(dan)衣(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)或(huo)衣(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)里(li)的(de)(de)下(xia)口(kou)(kou)(kou)(kou)邊(bian)。倒回針(zhen):在(zai)原線(xian)跡(ji)(ji)上(shang)往返縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)緝(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)。用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)于(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)緝(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)的(de)(de)始末加固(gu),裝封口(kou)(kou)(kou)(kou),叉封口(kou)(kou)(kou)(kou),裝帶襻等(deng)(deng)。
現代服(fu)裝(zhuang)加工(gong)的(de)主要機(ji)縫(feng)(feng)(feng)設備,除高速(su)平(ping)縫(feng)(feng)(feng)縫(feng)(feng)(feng)紉(ren)機(ji)(簡稱(cheng)平(ping)縫(feng)(feng)(feng)機(ji))外,還有多(duo)針多(duo)線包(bao)縫(feng)(feng)(feng)縫(feng)(feng)(feng)紉(ren)機(ji)(簡稱(cheng)包(bao)縫(feng)(feng)(feng)機(ji))以及取代手工(gong)的(de)開袋(dai)、鎖眼、釘扣、扎駁(bo)、復襯(衣面與(yu)衣襯組合)、裝(zhuang)袖、裝(zhuang)褲腰、打褶(zhe)等各(ge)種專用(yong)單機(ji),并有多(duo)功能(neng)自(zi)動調(diao)速(su)固(gu)體電(dian)路電(dian)子縫(feng)(feng)(feng)紉(ren)機(ji)問世。20世紀80年代,較先進的(de)機(ji)縫(feng)(feng)(feng)設備是自(zi)動縫(feng)(feng)(feng)紉(ren)系統,采用(yong)工(gong)業攝像機(ji)和(he)電(dian)子計算機(ji)監(jian)控,能(neng)自(zi)動識別(bie)裁片的(de)樣式,傳送并進行自(zi)動分類控制。
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