裁(cai)剪(jian)(jian)就是將衣(yi)料分割成(cheng)各種形態衣(yi)片的工藝。有批量裁(cai)剪(jian)(jian)(又稱工業裁(cai)剪(jian)(jian))和單件裁(cai)剪(jian)(jian)之分。

　　批量裁剪

　　按(an)(an)(an)(an)照服裝號(hao)(hao)(hao)(hao)(hao)型系列制(zhi)作(zuo)樣(yang)(yang)板(ban)(ban)(ban)進行多疊層的(de)(de)裁(cai)(cai)(cai)剪(jian)(jian)。是服裝工(gong)業生產(chan)中的(de)(de)主(zhu)(zhu)要(yao)裁(cai)(cai)(cai)剪(jian)(jian)形(xing)(xing)式(shi)。主(zhu)(zhu)要(yao)步驟為(wei)：①材料(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)檢驗(yan)。主(zhu)(zhu)要(yao)是對衣(yi)(yi)(yi)料(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)的(de)(de)伸縮率(lv)、色(se)牢(lao)度(du)、耐熱度(du)的(de)(de)理化檢驗(yan)，檢查疵(ci)點，測幅(fu)寬(kuan)，整(zheng)理緯斜以(yi)(yi)(yi)及熱預縮等(deng)(deng)。②制(zhi)定(ding)規格(ge)(ge)和(he)樣(yang)(yang)板(ban)(ban)(ban)。根據服裝款式(shi)、規格(ge)(ge)、衣(yi)(yi)(yi)料(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)性能和(he)縫制(zhi)工(gong)藝要(yao)求(qiu)，用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)硬紙板(ban)(ban)(ban)制(zhi)成劃(hua)樣(yang)(yang)用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)的(de)(de)衣(yi)(yi)(yi)片(pian)樣(yang)(yang)板(ban)(ban)(ban)，并制(zhi)定(ding)規格(ge)(ge)搭配等(deng)(deng)。③排(pai)料(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)。將(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)各(ge)衣(yi)(yi)(yi)片(pian)樣(yang)(yang)板(ban)(ban)(ban)排(pai)列在衣(yi)(yi)(yi)料(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)上(shang)或與衣(yi)(yi)(yi)料(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)幅(fu)寬(kuan)相同(tong)的(de)(de)紙上(shang)，以(yi)(yi)(yi)求(qiu)最大限度(du)地提高衣(yi)(yi)(yi)料(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)利用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)率(lv)。④劃(hua)樣(yang)(yang)。按(an)(an)(an)(an)排(pai)料(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)確(que)定(ding)的(de)(de)格(ge)(ge)式(shi)，依(yi)樣(yang)(yang)板(ban)(ban)(ban)劃(hua)出衣(yi)(yi)(yi)片(pian)輪(lun)廓和(he)記號(hao)(hao)(hao)(hao)(hao)。批量(liang)(liang)大的(de)(de)產(chan)品通(tong)常(chang)用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)漏(lou)花樣(yang)(yang)板(ban)(ban)(ban)(將(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)排(pai)料(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)線路鉆成等(deng)(deng)距連續針孔的(de)(de)樣(yang)(yang)板(ban)(ban)(ban))，以(yi)(yi)(yi)刷樣(yang)(yang)(用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)粉末刷入孔內使之(zhi)漏(lou)下顯形(xing)(xing))取(qu)代(dai)劃(hua)樣(yang)(yang)。20世紀60年(nian)代(dai)出現用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)于服裝設(she)計(ji)(ji)的(de)(de)計(ji)(ji)算機(ji)輔(fu)助(zhu)設(she)計(ji)(ji)系統(tong)(CAD)，按(an)(an)(an)(an)實樣(yang)(yang)或比例繪出排(pai)料(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)圖的(de)(de)新技術。⑤鋪(pu)料(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)。按(an)(an)(an)(an)排(pai)料(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)劃(hua)樣(yang)(yang)所需長度(du)、幅(fu)寬(kuan)、數量(liang)(liang)，將(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)衣(yi)(yi)(yi)料(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)多層疊鋪(pu)在裁(cai)(cai)(cai)剪(jian)(jian)臺上(shang)。50年(nian)代(dai)除手工(gong)鋪(pu)料(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)外，采(cai)用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)手推車或往返(fan)式(shi)電(dian)動(dong)(dong)(dong)鋪(pu)料(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)機(ji)操(cao)作(zuo)。80年(nian)代(dai)應(ying)用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)微電(dian)腦控制(zhi)的(de)(de)自(zi)(zi)(zi)動(dong)(dong)(dong)鋪(pu)料(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)機(ji)，能自(zi)(zi)(zi)動(dong)(dong)(dong)進行正、反(fan)面交叉(cha)或單(dan)面鋪(pu)料(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)，自(zi)(zi)(zi)動(dong)(dong)(dong)理邊、記數等(deng)(deng)。⑥開裁(cai)(cai)(cai)。按(an)(an)(an)(an)劃(hua)樣(yang)(yang)線路將(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)衣(yi)(yi)(yi)料(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)裁(cai)(cai)(cai)成衣(yi)(yi)(yi)片(pian)。通(tong)常(chang)用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)立式(shi)電(dian)剪(jian)(jian)刀(dao)(見日用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)五(wu)金)，最高開裁(cai)(cai)(cai)厚度(du)可達160mm，薄型織物(wu)約200層。此(ci)外還(huan)有各(ge)種(zhong)輔(fu)助(zhu)裁(cai)(cai)(cai)剪(jian)(jian)設(she)備，如帶式(shi)裁(cai)(cai)(cai)布機(ji)(又稱環形(xing)(xing)刀(dao)裁(cai)(cai)(cai)剪(jian)(jian)機(ji))、沖裁(cai)(cai)(cai)機(ji)等(deng)(deng)。60年(nian)代(dai)末出現使用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)電(dian)腦控制(zhi)的(de)(de)自(zi)(zi)(zi)動(dong)(dong)(dong)裁(cai)(cai)(cai)剪(jian)(jian)機(ji)(CAM)。⑦分(fen)包。將(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)裁(cai)(cai)(cai)好的(de)(de)衣(yi)(yi)(yi)片(pian)按(an)(an)(an)(an)不同(tong)的(de)(de)規格(ge)(ge)、顏色(se)歸類，分(fen)成若干包。⑧編(bian)號(hao)(hao)(hao)(hao)(hao)。將(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)一(yi)件(包)服裝的(de)(de)各(ge)組合衣(yi)(yi)(yi)片(pian)編(bian)成同(tong)一(yi)個順序(xu)號(hao)(hao)(hao)(hao)(hao)。有以(yi)(yi)(yi)包編(bian)號(hao)(hao)(hao)(hao)(hao)或以(yi)(yi)(yi)件編(bian)號(hao)(hao)(hao)(hao)(hao)兩種(zhong)。襯衫(shan)、睡衣(yi)(yi)(yi)等(deng)(deng)產(chan)品通(tong)常(chang)以(yi)(yi)(yi)一(yi)匹同(tong)色(se)原(yuan)料(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)按(an)(an)(an)(an)序(xu)編(bian)號(hao)(hao)(hao)(hao)(hao)，對易產(chan)生色(se)差的(de)(de)采(cai)取(qu)分(fen)層以(yi)(yi)(yi)件編(bian)號(hao)(hao)(hao)(hao)(hao)。用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)自(zi)(zi)(zi)動(dong)(dong)(dong)號(hao)(hao)(hao)(hao)(hao)碼機(ji)打印。⑨扎包。將(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)產(chan)品的(de)(de)組合裁(cai)(cai)(cai)片(pian)按(an)(an)(an)(an)規定(ding)的(de)(de)搭配要(yao)求(qiu)包扎在一(yi)起(qi)，并在包外注明(ming)標號(hao)(hao)(hao)(hao)(hao)，掛上(shang)標簽。在服裝加工(gong)廠給客(ke)戶(hu)做(zuo)大貨時就(jiu)會用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)批量(liang)(liang)裁(cai)(cai)(cai)剪(jian)(jian)的(de)(de)方法(fa)進行。

　　單件裁剪

　　對(dui)合體要(yao)求較高(gao)或(huo)特殊(shu)體型(xing)的(de)(de)定(ding)(ding)制(zhi)服(fu)(fu)裝(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)加(jia)(jia)工、樣(yang)品等進行(xing)裁(cai)剪(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。根(gen)據穿(chuan)著對(dui)象的(de)(de)體型(xing)或(huo)樣(yang)品測(ce)(ce)取(qu)各種裁(cai)剪(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)數(shu)據。上衣(yi)主(zhu)(zhu)要(yao)測(ce)(ce)量(liang)部(bu)位(wei)(wei)有衣(yi)長、胸(xiong)圍(wei)、肩(jian)寬(kuan)、袖長、領圍(wei)。緊(jin)身式(shi)女(nv)裝(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)還需(xu)(xu)增測(ce)(ce)腰圍(wei)、臀(tun)(tun)圍(wei)、乳(ru)(ru)高(gao)、乳(ru)(ru)距(ju)、前(qian)后(hou)腰節長度(du)(du)等。褲的(de)(de)主(zhu)(zhu)要(yao)測(ce)(ce)量(liang)部(bu)位(wei)(wei)有褲長、腰圍(wei)、臀(tun)(tun)圍(wei)、上襠長。單件裁(cai)剪(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)的(de)(de)方法(fa)(fa)(fa)主(zhu)(zhu)要(yao)有 5種。①比例(li)法(fa)(fa)(fa)：即(ji)胸(xiong)度(du)(du)法(fa)(fa)(fa)或(huo)臀(tun)(tun)度(du)(du)法(fa)(fa)(fa)。上衣(yi)以(yi)人(ren)體胸(xiong)圍(wei)為(wei)(wei)(wei)基礎，下裝(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)以(yi)人(ren)體臀(tun)(tun)圍(wei)為(wei)(wei)(wei)基礎，對(dui)其他部(bu)位(wei)(wei)尺寸(cun)根(gen)據胸(xiong)圍(wei)或(huo)臀(tun)(tun)圍(wei)進行(xing)比例(li)分配。②原(yuan)型(xing)法(fa)(fa)(fa)：又(you)稱基型(xing)法(fa)(fa)(fa)。依測(ce)(ce)量(liang)人(ren)體的(de)(de)尺寸(cun)為(wei)(wei)(wei)基準(zhun)，繪制(zhi)模(mo)具(ju)式(shi)衣(yi)片(pian)原(yuan)型(xing)，然后(hou)在原(yuan)型(xing)基礎上按款式(shi)特點(dian)作(zuo)局部(bu)調整(zheng)，再進行(xing)裁(cai)剪(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。③定(ding)(ding)寸(cun)法(fa)(fa)(fa)：用(yong)文(wen)字或(huo)圖形將各部(bu)位(wei)(wei)裁(cai)剪(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)所(suo)需(xu)(xu)數(shu)據全(quan)部(bu)標(biao)出，然后(hou)按標(biao)出的(de)(de)尺寸(cun)裁(cai)剪(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。④短寸(cun)法(fa)(fa)(fa)：對(dui)人(ren)體各部(bu)位(wei)(wei)盡(jin)可能進行(xing)測(ce)(ce)量(liang)，然后(hou)按取(qu)得的(de)(de)數(shu)據進行(xing)裁(cai)剪(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。⑤立體法(fa)(fa)(fa)：在人(ren)體模(mo)型(xing)或(huo)人(ren)體上直接塑造(zao)服(fu)(fu)裝(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)款式(shi)，并做好(hao)各種標(biao)記(ji)，是將設(she)計造(zao)型(xing)和(he)裁(cai)剪(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)融為(wei)(wei)(wei)一體的(de)(de)方法(fa)(fa)(fa)。縫制(zhi)前(qian)還需(xu)(xu)復原(yuan)為(wei)(wei)(wei)平面，作(zuo)必要(yao)的(de)(de)修正(zheng)或(huo)復制(zhi)成樣(yang)板(ban)。常用(yong)于裁(cai)剪(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)某些立體感強，造(zao)型(xing)難度(du)(du)高(gao)，衣(yi)料(liao)柔軟，具(ju)懸(xuan)垂(chui)特性的(de)(de)女(nv)式(shi)時(shi)裝(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)。服(fu)(fu)裝(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)加(jia)(jia)工廠給客戶打版時(shi)就會(hui)用(yong)單件裁(cai)剪(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)的(de)(de)方法(fa)(fa)(fa)進行(xing)。